Taste Life

Archive for November, 2009

A Star is Born. Starring: Sourdough

In Cookery Exploits on November 25, 2009 at 4:32 am

Sourdough is one of my favorite all time breads. From taste to texture and aroma, it is hard to compete with the culinary qualities of sourdough.  Now I still contest that the best “true” sour taste comes from the time and care of a good mother sponge.  But not every baker has the foresight to have a mother sponge available when the sourdough craving comes on.  To this end, I began my quest for the impossible: a one day (direct dough method) sourdough, that would have all the benefits of the “gold standard” sourdough made from a “mother” or “master dough.”

The art of this possibility came when I was experimenting with the James Beard Classic: Beard on Bread.  In this book Beard experiments with sour cream when he could not find any buttermilk on hand.  The bread smelled and tasted sour and had been my go-to until the development of my current creation.   Wanting a bit more nutrient value in the mix I decided to tinker with the addition of whole wheat and semolina flour, not too much that it would weigh down the dough, but enough to give it good color and texture. The liquid, an essential feature to the structural framework of the bread, was a trifecta of plain yogurt, buttermilk and lemon juice all acting synergistically to draw the yummy sourness out of one another.

Organic evaporated cane juice sugar was added for flavor and for creating a golden crust, while also providing a little extra motivation for the “yeasties.”  Unsalted butter, is added to give a tender and rich bread while improving browning.

Ingredients: (makes 3 8×4 loaves)

2 Cups Low-fat Buttermilk
2 Cups Plain Yogurt
1/2 Cup Warm Water
1/4 Cup melted unsalted butter (tempered: not over 115 degrees)
1/4 Cup Evaporated Cane Juice Sugar
2 Tbsp. Lemon Juice
2 Tbsp. Salt
2 pkg. Active Dry Yeast
8-10 Cups Flour
(1 Cup Whole Wheat Flour, 7-8 cups hard wheat bread flour, 3/4 cups Semolina Flour)

Directions:
Combine in saucepan: buttermilk, yogurt and lemon juice let sit for a few minutes. Then add sugar, butter and salt. Heat almost to a boil. Cool thoroughly. In a 2 cup measuring cup, combine dry yeast and water. Add yeast mixture to cool buttermilk/yogurt mixture. Mix. Gradually add flour to make workable dough. Knead 10 minutes on floured board. Place in bowl and cover. Let rise for 45 minutes. Punch down. Divide into three equal loaves. Place loaves in greased bread pans. Let rise 45 minutes. Bake at 375 degrees for about 30 minutes. Yield: 3 loaves.

Ode to Mr. Irving Penn

In Photography on November 19, 2009 at 4:58 am

My dad is a photographer.  A great one at that. His gift for the artistic portrait will always be vivid in memory. Grey and silver monochromatic tones captured the beauty in the most simple or complex of subjects and provided me with endless hours of exploration for finding the “art” within the subject.

Irving Penn my father’s favorite photographer made a deep impression on my family. His gifted talent to capture moments on film will always be remember. Oddly, I still keep thinking about Irving Penn who died this October 7, 2009 at the age of 92.  His works preserved.  Tradesmen, culture and fashion history immortalized.
As Adam Gopnik, so eloquently wrote in his Postscript for New Yorker Magazine:
There are many instinctive romantics among popular artists, the Gershwins and the Chaplins who, through force of spirit and originality of style, take by storm the balcony and the boxes alike.  Penn was something rarer, an instinctive popular classicist, with a magical gift for visual rhythm, for making something insignificant–a pattern of cigarettes and ashes, each ash miraculously in its one best place–look as formally inevitable as an eighteenth-century still-life.

Few photos of some of his early work the “tradesmen” portrait collection

Additional classic favorites of mine
Self Portrait
Mr. Penn, thank you for opening my eyes to the beauty of photography and the art of capturing the simple with complexity.  Your images engrained in my memory and heart. You will be forever missed.

Gettin’ par-snippy…with the cauliflower.

In Cookery Exploits on November 9, 2009 at 4:03 am

Cauliflower, why?  If your like me, you were part of the incredulous “why” is this so good for me group?  Perplexed by this vegetable with an off smell and snow white color, I decided to find my transformative dish to help me transcend my childhood “cauliflower” baggage. To my surprise, soup was the answer.

It all started with the Jimtown Store Cookbook:“Vanessa’s Cauliflower Sharp White Cheddar Soup” recipe–pause, followed by consideration raced through my mind. And when I finally grew the courage to try and experiment, I was in love.  Why had I been shunning this healthy cruciferous vegetable for so long?

My new found love of this virtually fat-free, zero cholesterol, high in Vitamin C and cancer fighting vegetable got me curious.  Was there other things I could add to play off an already fantastic dish?  I was leery, as I have always heeded to the “If it ain’t  broke, don’t fix it” credo.

But to my delight, the marriage of a lovely new partner–> the parsnip, only added to the complexity and nutrient value of this already rockin’ soup.  With haste, I decided to jot down the notes of this lovely little experiment.

Adapted from the Jimtown Store Cookbook – Vanessa’s Cauliflower and Cheddar Soup

Ingredients:

1    Large leek (white and pale green parts only)

1/2 Stick unsalted butter

2  Celery ribs finely chopped

2 1/2 tsp.
Dry mustard

1/2 tsp.
Smoked paprika – or sweet paprika

4 Cups
Vegetable stock

1 Cup
Hot water

1/2 Cup
Milk

1/2 tsp.
Fine grain sea salt to taste

4 Cups
Cauliflower florets

2 Parsnips diced

2 tbsp.
Dry sherry

1/2 Cup
Grated sharp cheddar cheese

1 bunch
Fresh thyme

1 tbsp.
Minced chives

Directions:

Step 1
Cut the leek half wise rinse under cold water and dice.

Step 2
In a medium pot over low heat, melt the butter.  Add the leek and celery, cover and cook, stirring once or twice, for 10 minutes.  Add the flour, mustard, and paprika, and cook, stirring often without browning, for 2 minutes.  Gradually whisk in the warm broth, milk and water.  Stir in 1/2 tsp fine grain sea salt, add cauliflower, parsnip and bunch of thyme cover and bring to a simmer.

Step 3
Cook partially covered, stirring occassionally until the cauliflower and parsnips are tender about 20 minutes.  Cool slightly, and puree with an hand blender or food processor.  (The soup can be prepared to this point up to 3 days in advance. Cover and refrigerate).

Step 4
Return the soup to the pan and set over low heat.  When the soup simmers, stir in the cheese and sherry.  Heat, stirring with out letting the soup boil.  Until the cheese has melted smoothly.  Season with pepper and adjust the salt.

Step 5
Serve in a pre-warmed soup bowl top with grated cheese and chives.  Viola – fineto!

Sunday, Yummy Sunday…

In Local Food Features on November 1, 2009 at 10:06 pm

I love Sunday mornings.  I grab my newspaper and head out the door to treat myself to breakfast and a morning of leisure.  Santa Rosa is now home to two of my favorite breakfast places: Dierks Parkside Cafe and Jeffrey’s Hillside Cafe in East Santa Rosa.

This Sunday I decided to try an new venture, Jeffery Madura’s Hillside Cafe and to my delight, it was all that I expected and more. This cafe has the cozy blending of sophisticated eats with down home Sonoma charm and friendly service.  And, as I entered the building I had my dining setting choice of “old school” counter seating with a flat panel television or comfy booths and tables.

New owner and previous Executive Chef of John Ash&Co. Jeffery Madura has transformed not only the building, but the menu. His unique gourmand offerings of exotic and classic breakfast favorites make it an easy crowd pleaser.  Scanning the menu I came across some intriguing breakfast choices of my own, a beautiful vegetarian scramble with tofu, shiitake mushrooms, yams, spinach and green peppers, or a delicate formage blanc cheese blintz with lemon curd fresh figs, and strawberries.  I went with the latter and the dish tasted as good as it looks!

Can’t wait to go back and try the vegetarian scramble.  This place does get busy, so depending on the time of day there could be a wait, but in my humble opinion its worth it! Cafe is open from 6:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 7 days a week, lunch served after 11 a.m.  Prices range from $6.00-$13.50. Address: 2901 Fourth Street.