Summer. Long sun-filled days. And endless cookbooks to try. My mountain retreat has turned into my cookery crucible, especially for bread. A joy, I partake of on a monthly basis.
Two dynamic factors always make it fun to bake in the mountains: Air and Water. Higher altitude provides less air pressure making bread rise more quickly than your sea level counterparts. Water rich in minerals gives the bread an additional complexity that cannot be compared to average filtered water. For these reasons alone, I commit to bread making whenever I visit the Sierras.
This weekend’s baking journey took me through the famous boulangeries of France. Bernard Clayton’s Breads of France , is a black and white cookbook that provides numerous Parisian recipes with overviews of the various cities and culture, profiles of the bakers and very straightforward instructions with pictures.
The recipe for Pain Italien comes from Monaco, France. Master baker Monsieur Albert Phillips is one of the eight bakers chosen to provide baked goods to the Royal Palace for the Rainer family including Prince Albert, Princess Grace and Princess Caroline. M. Phillips place of business, L’Epi d’Or (the golden ear of wheat) continues to be a strong draw for locals and visitors today. M. Phillips was described as a spare man about five feet, six inches tall, who’s furious exits no doubt help maintain his wiry figure.
Pain Italien . Italian Bread (adapted)
1 tbsp. salt
1 tbsp 100% maple syrup
1/3 cup non-fat dry milk
2 1/2 cup cool water (75 degrees)
2 packages dry yeast
1/2 cool water (proofing yeast)
6 cups (3 whole wheat, 3 white bread flour)
1 tbsp. olive oil
PREPARATION
This recipe is good in an electric mixer for the first 10 minutes of dough development (soft batter).
10 Minutes
In a small bowl, mix the salt, maple syrup, milk and 2 1/2 cups of water until syrup has dissolved. In another small bowl dissolve the yeast in 1/2 cup of water. Stir and let stand for 3 to 4 minutes to dissolve. In the mixer bowl, place 4 cups of flour and form a well in the center. Pour the maple-milk mixture, stir in to form a batter and then add the yeast and oil.
MIXER
10 Minutes
Let the mixer take over at medium speed for 10 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl during the process, if necessary. If by hand, beat with a large wooden spoon for the equivalent length of time.
5 Minutes
Stop mixer. Add additional flour, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring first with a spoon and then working the flour into the dough by hand. When dough is firm take out of the bowl.
KNEADING
8 Minutes
This is a wonderful dough to knead–elastic, soft, warm to the touch. Throw the dough down on a lightly floured kneading area. If you are using the dough hook, knead dough for about 5 minutes watching carefully as dough may creep of the hook.
FIRST RISING
2 hours
Return dough to the large washed and greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature until the dough has tripled in volume. In my large bowl this means that dough is pressing against the plastic wrap.
PUNCH DOWN
2 Minutes
Turn back the plastic wrap, punch and deflate the dough with extended fingers. Turn dough over. Re-cover the bowl.
SECOND RISING
30 Minutes
Allow the dough to rise.
SHAPING
20 Minutes
The boule or ball is the favored form of the Pain Italien in M. Phillips boulangerie, but it can also be made into sandwich loaves (2) 9×5 pans. Turn the dough out onto the floured work surface and knead briefly to press out the bubbles (that’s right, bubbles – its yeasty alright!). Divide the dough, which will weigh about four pounds, into two pieces or as many as you wish. Form each into a ball and allow to rest for 20 minutes.
15 Minutes
For a boule, shape the dough into a ball, gently pull the surface of the dough taut with cupped hands. Place on a parchment lined (slipmat) baking sheet.
THIRD RISING
1 Hour
Cover the loaves with a cloth (breathable preferably). Preheat oven to 425 degrees. When breads are ready to go into the oven cut a tic-tac-toe design on the loaf.
BAKING
40-50 Minutes
Before placing into a dry oven (no water in a pan), brush the loaves with water or egg wash and bake. If you are using two shelves, rotate baking sheets 2 to 3 times after the loaves begin to brown, about 20 minutes. Loaves are done when they are golden brown and when bottom crust is hard and hollow sounding to the tap of the forefinger.
FINAL STEP
Place loaves on metal rack to cool.
