Taste Life

Archive for August, 2009

Getting my French 70’s Bakery Groove On. . .

In Cookery Exploits on August 30, 2009 at 1:47 am

Summer.  Long sun-filled days. And endless cookbooks to try.  My mountain retreat has turned into my cookery crucible, especially for bread.  A joy, I partake of on a monthly basis.

Two dynamic factors always make it fun to bake in the mountains: Air and Water.  Higher altitude provides less air pressure making bread rise more quickly than your sea level counterparts.   Water rich in minerals gives the bread an additional complexity that cannot be compared to average filtered water.  For these reasons alone, I commit to bread making whenever I visit the Sierras.

This weekend’s baking journey took me through the famous boulangeries of France. Bernard Clayton’s Breads of France , is a black and white cookbook that provides numerous Parisian recipes with overviews of the various cities and culture, profiles of the bakers and very straightforward instructions with pictures.

The recipe for Pain Italien comes from Monaco, France. Master baker Monsieur Albert Phillips is one of the eight bakers chosen to provide baked goods to the Royal Palace for the Rainer family including Prince Albert, Princess Grace and Princess Caroline.  M. Phillips place of business, L’Epi d’Or (the golden ear of wheat) continues to be a strong draw for locals and visitors today.  M.  Phillips was described as a spare man about five feet, six inches tall, who’s furious exits no doubt help maintain his wiry figure.

Pain Italien . Italian Bread (adapted)

            • 1 tbsp. salt
            • 1 tbsp 100% maple syrup
            • 1/3 cup non-fat dry milk
            • 2 1/2 cup cool water (75 degrees)
            • 2 packages dry yeast
            • 1/2 cool water (proofing yeast)
            • 6 cups (3 whole wheat, 3 white bread flour)
            • 1 tbsp. olive oil

PREPARATION

This recipe is good in an electric mixer for the first 10 minutes of dough development (soft batter).

10 Minutes
In a small bowl, mix the salt, maple syrup, milk and 2 1/2 cups of water until syrup has dissolved.  In another small bowl dissolve the yeast in 1/2 cup of water.  Stir and let stand for 3 to 4 minutes to dissolve.  In the mixer bowl, place 4 cups of flour and form a well in the center.  Pour the maple-milk mixture, stir in to form a batter and then add the yeast and oil.

MIXER

10 Minutes
Let the mixer take over at medium speed for 10 minutes.  Scrape down the sides of the bowl during the process, if necessary.  If by hand, beat with a large wooden spoon for the equivalent length of time.

5 Minutes
Stop mixer.  Add additional flour, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring first with a spoon and then working the flour into the dough by hand.  When dough is firm take out of the bowl.

KNEADING
8 Minutes

This is a wonderful dough to knead–elastic, soft, warm to the touch.  Throw the dough down on a lightly floured kneading area.  If you are using the dough hook, knead dough for about 5 minutes watching carefully as dough may creep of the hook.

FIRST RISING
2 hours

Return dough to the large washed and greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature until the dough has tripled in volume.   In my large bowl this means that dough is pressing against the plastic wrap.

PUNCH DOWN
2 Minutes

Turn back the plastic wrap, punch and deflate the dough with extended fingers.  Turn dough over.  Re-cover the bowl.

SECOND RISING
30 Minutes

Allow the dough to rise.

SHAPING
20 Minutes

The boule or ball is the favored form of the Pain Italien in M. Phillips boulangerie, but it can also be made into sandwich loaves (2) 9×5 pans.  Turn the dough out onto the floured work surface and knead briefly to press out the bubbles (that’s right, bubbles – its yeasty alright!).  Divide the dough, which will weigh about four pounds, into two pieces or as many as you wish.  Form each into a ball and allow to rest for 20 minutes.

15 Minutes

For a boule, shape the dough into a ball, gently pull the surface of the dough taut with cupped hands.  Place on a parchment lined (slipmat) baking sheet.

THIRD RISING
1 Hour

Cover the loaves with a cloth (breathable preferably).  Preheat oven to 425 degrees.  When breads are ready to go into the oven cut a tic-tac-toe design on the loaf.

BAKING
40-50 Minutes

Before placing into a dry oven (no water in a pan), brush the loaves with water or egg wash and bake.  If you are using two shelves, rotate baking sheets 2 to 3 times after the loaves begin to brown, about 20 minutes.  Loaves are done when they are golden brown and when bottom crust is hard and hollow sounding to the tap of the forefinger.

FINAL STEP
Place loaves on metal rack to cool.

SoCo: Running and Mountain Bike Mecca

In Sonoma Culture on August 23, 2009 at 4:48 pm

Sonoma County gets plenty of attention for spawning it’s most famous athlete in a generation (perhaps in it’s history?) – Levi Leipheimer. Sorry guys, Joe Montana only lives here! With that, it’s easy to assume that perhaps the greatest gift to it’s “athletes” are it’s well-treed and undulating back roads on which to cycle producing Levi-like results? To that point, Yes, it’s valley’s are indeed picturesque with finely tuned vineyards, rolling countryside and a rich culture thick in culinary as well as the visual arts- but what’s “in it” for those “other” athletes who don’t feel comfortable wearing a lycra set while sipping on a glass of chardonnay?

Born and raised a runner in Santa Rosa, I came to understand and appreciate (especially after spending my college years in Southern California) the spectacular and varied training grounds that Sonoma County has at its fingertips.  My favorite is Annadel State Park. For the hard-core runner or inspired hiker who is struggling to find that often elusive “2nd wind” during the 1200 foot climb to lake Ilsanjo, will have no trouble discovering it after a quick dip at its banks. Go ahead, reward yourself! No, there are no lifeguards lurking and you won’t find any annoying “Keep Out” signs posted- so take the plunge if you feel so inclined.

For the last 28years, I’ve gone on living quite contently in my ignorant bliss- believing that all my “hard-core” running in this region had exposed me to the best Annadel State Park had to offer. You might imagine however, the sad awakening that came over me when I was “forced” to discover the novelty of the bicycle due to a nagging running injury. The result has been nothing less than astonishing as the other half of the park which I neglected to appreciate has since come into focus.

Here is my recommendation: Park your car (for free) on Montgomery Drive at the base of the dam adjacent to Spring Lake. Take the road along Channel Drive (nice flat warm-up!), take the Warren Richardson trial (dirt parking lot and beginning of climb) to the South Burma trail, Burma dumps into Marsh. At this point you have two options. You can head Northwest (right turn) on Marsh which will lead you back to Spring Lake (the safe and utterly care-free route) or you can head South-East (turn left) for an even more expansive (and challenging) experience. The Lawndale trail offers the greatest reward/experience in my humble opinion. However, Lawndale will eventually dump you off at a parking lot near Kenwood. At that point, you may simply turn around and head back up Lawndale or you can navigate southward (my recommendation) via the paved roadway until you reach the south-east entrance: Schultz trail. That will take you all the way back up to Marsh where you could ultimately connect to Canyon then Spring Lake Park.

At a moderate pace, the Lawndale to Schultz loop will take you 3 glorious hours- but give yourself 4 hours just in case you want to stop and observe the occasional Peregrine Falcon, deer or wild turkey’s that call these 5,000 acres home.

~ Guest Post: Sean O’Leary

Luther’s Garden of Innovation

In Sonoma Culture on August 18, 2009 at 4:38 am

Under the guise of wanting to learn more about my hometown “food history,” I decided to investigate one of Santa Rosa’s most famous food innovators: Luther Burbank. As a foodie, I have an accelerated interest in understanding where our food comes from, the methods behind its production and the distance it has traveled before consumption.

Skimming through the local section at Copperfield books, I could not help but be intrigued by the newly released Luther Burbank Biography “The Garden of Invention” by Jane S. Smith. Glancing through the reviews I decide to commit to a purchase and delve into the history of a community legend I knew little of.

Plants as inventions? Burbank thought so and over a fifty year period he introduced more than 800 varieties, many still widely used today. As Burbank’s career began to take hold in California honors as “the most famous gardener on the planet” quickly followed placing Burbank into a snapshot in time when “finding new and economically useful plants” was still a national concern.

Burbank’s understanding for the beauty of nature was shaped at a young age through numerous friendships with pseudoscience natural philosophers and literary writers including: Alexander Von Humboldt, William Blake, Henry David Thoreau, and Ralph Waldo Emerson. Mostly self taught, Luther’s life mentor appeared through the relatively obscure text of Charles Darwin’s, “The Variation Animals and Plants under Domestication”, which sparked his imagination and gave him great purpose to “Go West,” and develop his field work to find the answers to the problems that the book only suggested.

After experiencing a few difficult east coast winters, Burbank left his home state of Massachusetts, to pursue the golden climate of California, which would allow him to experiment and plant year-round. Riding off the success of his first invention the Burbank potato, which is still widely used today as the industry standard. Luther landed on a 4-acre plot in downtown Santa Rosa. Still relatively unknown, Burbank leased rights away for a very low price, which over the first few years required him to try and seek additional royalties to carry on his experimental gardens in Santa Rosa.

His first clients on the West Coast included Petaluma orchard owner Warren Dutton. Burbank’s work with Dutton demonstrated his gift of grafting a superior tasting and looking product with solid yield predictability. From here, Luther’s influence in the field of agricultural and horticulture continued to blossom. His annual catalogs were a well sought after and anticipated marketing piece that left Mr. Burbank with a steady stream of business and notoriety.

His advances in his field sparked attention from Stanford University were he would often guest lecture, helping to bring him eventual acceptance into the broader scientific community and ultimately a proud recipient of the Carnegie grant for many years. (much to the chargin of Carnegie)


Luther remained loyal to his gardens in Santa Rosa and Sebastopol throughout the years. His impact drew many prominent admirers including Thomas Edison and Henry Ford who would correspond and even visit him at his gardens in Santa Rosa. Both Edison and Ford felt a reconnection to their country roots, as both brilliant inventors struggled with the affects their new technology had in a more industrialized world. Luther’s friendship and insight remained of key importance to Edison and Ford throughout their lives.

Burbank was also immortalized in Diego Rivera’s 1931 mural, the Allegory of California, Burbank kneels beneath the fruit filled hand of a goddess of plenty, nurturing an unidentifiable plant while other industries extract all they can from the natural landscape. That same year, Frida Kahlo also painted a Portrait of Luther Burbank that is, like much of her work, both heroic and foreboding.

The most enduring memorial to Burbank, though, is not a statue or a painting. It is a shovel. More specifically, it is Burbank’s shovel, proudly standing upright in the cement dedication stone of The Henry Ford American Heritage museum in Dearborn, Michigan. This symbolic monument was resurrected fourteen years after Ford’s and Edison’s memorable visit to Santa Rosa and more than three years after Burbank’s death. Thomas Edison joined President Herbert Hoover, scientist and Nobel laureate Marie Curie, inventors Orville Wright and George Eastman, oil magnate turn philanthropist John D.Rockefeller to honor Ford’s collection of ordinary implements. Ford insisted Edison’s signature be included on cement block that was to house Luther Burbank’s shovel as a symbolic presence of Burbank’s and Edison’s inventive spirit.